Travel, even Epicurean travel, will inevitably lead you to some somber places. I have been to Normandy in search of Calvados and cheese only to find myself visiting World War II battlefields and cemeteries. I explored Manila and came upon another sobering military cemetery. Rather than glorifying war, these sad memorials only serve to remind one of the terrible waste, tragedy, and horror of mankind’s biggest folly. How self-destructive is our species?!